PUNE: Giripremi team member Ashish Mane (22) became the first civilian mountaineer from the state and fourth civilian to summit Mount Lhotse (8516 M), the fourth tallest mountain in the world, on Thursday morning.
Ashish is the only civilian from the state who has scaled both Mount Everest and Mount Lhotse back to back. He scaled Mount Everest in 2012 as a part of Giripremi's expedition to the world's tallest mountain. He was with the Giripremi team till camp three after which he alone scaled Mount Lhotse.
Giripremi member Rupesh Khopde told Sakal Times that Ashish was accompanied by two Sherpas, Lakpa Dorji Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa during his summit attempt. "Ashish was stationed at Summit Camp from where he started his summit attempt at 12.30 am on Thursday morning. At that time, there were no wind blowing and the weather for pleasant for some time," Rupesh said.
"After that, Ashish did ice climbing on Lhotse face and the part of climbing through the Coloir (one of the feature of the mountain which is like a close passage) was extremely difficult where he had to do mixed climbing on hard ice, soft snow and parts of rock. After reaching the Coloir and then, the ridge of the mountain, he turned left to reach the main summit. He finally reached the main summit on Thursday morning," Rupesh added.
Afte waving the Tricolor on Lhotse, Ashish returned to the summit camp. He climbed down to camp 3 and continued until camp 2. He had an opportunity to return to Base Camp and relax but he chose to stay at camp 2 and support his team mates who are awaiting their Everest summit attempt at South Col, Rupesh said.
It was time for celebration at Giripremi's office in Pune and Ashish's residence in Satara where his parents are proud of his extraordinary achievement.
Ashish's father Sharad Mane told Sakal Times that the family was overjoyed after they heard about Ashish's achievement. "It was a risk to send him for the second time. Initially, there were mixed reactions of fear and anxiety from the time we came to know that he had started his final summit. But we are happy to hear this great news," Mane said.
PROFILE OF ASHISH MANE
- He hails from Satara and is currently studying M.Sc (computer science) from Shivrai Pratishthan College of Science, Kothrud
- Has done Basic Mountaineering Course from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi with excellent grades in 2010
- He has participated in rock climbing expedition of NAFTA-Sahyadri
- He scaled Mount Everest as a part of Giripremi's expedition to the world's tallest mountain in 2012
- After that, he completed his Advanced Mountaineering Course from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi in 2012
- He has now become the first person from Maharashtra to scale Mount Lhotse
Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain on earth (after Mount Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga) and is connected to Everest via the South Col. Lhotse means South Peak in Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above the sea level, Lhotse Middle (East) is at 8,414 metres (27,605 ft) and Lhotse Shar is at 8,383 metres (27,503 ft). It is located on the border between Tibet (China) and the Khumbu region of Nepal.
WHY CLIMBING LHOTSE IS MORE DIFFICULT THAN EVEREST
Giripremi member Niranjan Palsule said the final climb of Mount Lhotse is steep which is in the angle of 70 to 80 degrees. The only way to Lhotse is through a coloir which mostly is a rocky part and there are several loose structures. Hence, the possibility of rocks falling is more while scaling Lhotse which makes it more difficult to climb the mountain. "The wind blows continuously making it difficult for mountaineers to climb the mountain," Palsule added.
BRIEF PROFILE OF GIRIPREMI
Affiliated to Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF), New Delhi, Giripremi is a pioneer mountaineering club based in Pune. A majority of the members of the club are certified professional climbers. Anand Palande, Dilip Nimbalkar, Late Nandu Page, Ushaprabha Page and Shashikant Hiremath set up the club in 1982. The members of the club have successfully scaled many mountains located in the Himalayan Range and a team from Giripremi successfully conducted the first civilian expedition to Mount Everest in 2012. It has scaled different mountains and peaks including Leo Pargial (6,792 m), Himachal Pradesh, Mt Mana (7,232 m), Garhwal Uttaranchal, Mt. Baby Shivling (4,590 m), Garhwal, Uttaranchal, Mt. Golab Kangri (5,855 m), Ladakh, J&K, Mt. Manda - I (6,568 m), Garhwal Uttaranchal, Mt. Nun (7,135 m), Kargil, J&K. In 1998, Giripremi sent three of its members to TATA Everest expedition. Giripremi's member Surendra Chavan became the first Maharashtrian to reach the summit.
HISTORY BEHIND CLIMBING OF LHOTSE BY INDIAN CIVILIANS
- Civilian Arjun Vajpayee was the first Indian to climb Mount Lhotse in 2011
- Dipankar Ghosh and Rajiv were first civilians to climb Mount Lhotse from West Bengal in 2012
- Ashish Mane becomes first civilian from state to climb Mount Lhotse in 2013
Ushaprabha Page, Founder, Giripremi
Climbing Lhotse is an extraordinary achievement as it is not easy to climb this mountain. Since he is very young, this factor was beneficial for him. He had been to the Mount Everest last year and hence, was experienced. He had good mental preparation and received moral support from other team members of Giripremi. His own will and determination has helped him to achieve this feat. We are extremely happy and satisfied with his achievement.
Surendra Chavan, First Maharashtrian to climb Mount Everest
This is a fantastic achievement and I am proud of Ashish. This is a new chapter in the history of mountaineering. I had started the trend of climbing Mount Everest from Maharashtra and now, Ashish has climbed Mount Lhotse and has started a new trend. Ashish has the spark and there will be more expectations from him in the future. Since he hails from Satara, his feat will help in promotion of mountaineering as a sport in that region.